Introduction
It’s been a month and a half since my last update, and things have changed completely. The rigid schedule of training is gone while long, tedious days have set in. I’m no longer constantly surrounded by other new volunteers. I’m the only toubob in Yangasso, and when I do see other Americans, it’s a good mixture of the Breakfast Club and Belushis. Training was hard, but new difficulties have set in to make the first months here even more challenging. Though having some freedom now definitely has its perks. There’s a lot to say, so I’m going to break it up a bit…
Part I- Installation and Village Life
As you know, I was “installed” in late September. We got off to a rough start when we were in a bus accident on our way to site. We ran into a truck that was turning in front of us, ran over a motorcycle and ran off the road. I thought we were going to flip over. Miraculously, no one was seriously injured, though they had o bring us out a new bus. Anyways…
The five of us new to San kaw, Susie, Rachel, Stephanie, Nicole and I stopped in Segou and San on our way to site to do some shopping. We bought the basics for our homes that can’t be purchased at site. Stephanie and I installed first, which was a little bit terrifying. The Peace Corps helps to unload your stuff, and then leaves. You’re then on your own. Completely. Luckily I have the stage house to meet up with other volunteers to “debrief.”
My house is really nice by Malian standards. It’s a three room cement building with a tin roof on the west edge of town. As I’ve mentioned, I share a concession with a Malian family. My first day some neighbors built me a hangar, or guwa, for shade. I enjoy sitting outside reading and watching the family next door every day.
I’ve gotten the feel of Yangasso; it’s slower pace and agricultural focus. Cows, sheep and goats are herded past my concession every day, and donkeys pull carts piled with millet and corn. The market takes over on Tuesdays, when people come from surrounding villages to sell crops, fruits and vegetables, fabric, dead-toubob clothes and household items. It used to terrify me but I’m starting to pick up its rhythm. Though, I still find it difficult to be able to buy fresh produce only once a week. It rots quickly in this heat, and there are very few means of storage.
Part II- The Family
I’ve mentioned my homologue and neighbors, so it’s time to introduce you to the people in my life. My work counterparts are Mariam (or Mamu) and Diarra Coulibaly. They are two very strong and relatively educated women. Both have worked in the mayor’s office, and both are actively involved in the women’s association. I’ve also started working at the local school a bit, and have gotten to know the English teacher, Monsieur Thera, quite well.
My neighbors are the people I’ve gotten to know the best. Kasim has one wife, Aminata, two sons and three daughters. They are (with estimated ages) Bobsi (13), Moussa (11), La (9), Bailo (6) and Ama (2). Ama used to be terrified of me, screaming and crying whenever I came near. After about a month she warmed up. She loves bringing me my lunch everday. Bailo is my favorite. She was very worried when I was sick last week and informed me that I need to drink water with medicine mashed up in it.
Part III- My Work and the Challenges
So I guess people want to know what exactly I do here. A fellow PCV put it well when he said “anyone who lives vicariously through me obviously knows nothing about my life.” Honestly, I don’t do anything. At least, not yet. I try to study language and get to know the community. I go to the meeting for the women’s association every Sunday, but unfortunately they only speak Bambara. I’m also stating to help teach English in the secondary school. Besides that I sit, read, yaala yaala, clean, etc.
As I said before, a new life, new difficulties. Language is a big one. I spent all of training learning French but need Bambara at site. My homologue is often out of town, so I struggle to fill my time. Days are long. The abuse here is also very hard to deal with, especially in the schools. No matter how much I see it, I can’t (and don’t want to) get used to seeing teachers hit students. This is a new challenge that I haven’t yet found a solution for.
Part IV- My American Life
That’s all there really is to my Malian life here, but I do have an American side as well It’s in San. Every week or two the other volunteers and I head in to the stage house to recover. In San we can do some shopping that you can’t do at site (tuna, ketchup, produce every day, orange juice, cold soda and sweet frozen yogurt…as in yogurt that is frozen). At the stage house we enjoy electricity, ceiling fans, a stove and refrigerator, toilets and running water. More than anything we enjoy each other. Let me introduce you to San kaw:
The Breakfast Club:
Me- Malian alter ego Worokia Coulibaly
Susie- the other SED volunteer from Tennessee living in Kimparana
Nicole- super NRM volunteer furthest from San, excellent cook
Rachel- Ag volunteer in N’Torosso whose crazy enough to bike 3 hours to San in the heat
Stephani- NRM volunteer crazy enough to bike with Rachel
Belushis:
Kali- the one I’ve gotten to know best, fellow Incredible, NRM from central New York and a huge help thus far
Tamara- Ag or NRM volunteer who just went to Ghana
Patience- insanely kind SED volunteer who runs the behind the scenes work at the stage house
Jam- the missing Belushi who rarely leaves her site
Yup, we’re a girl’s club. Luckily it’s a great group of people who I really enjoy. Let’s take Halloween as an example…
Last week San hosted Halloween for 25 or so PCVs. Kali was in charge an did an incredible job. I tried to help out, but it was pure chaos (insanely fun chaos, that is). I got to San a few days eary to get my costume together and help set up. The theme was superheroes and villains, though only half of us followed the theme. Kali, Nicole and I went as the Incredibles (make sure to check out pictures of Flickr).
The day before a ton of people showed up; a little earlier than expected. We all spent the day getting caught up as it was the first time we’d seen PCVs from out of region since training. Kali and I cooked like mad in the sweltering kitchen. I’m told the food turned out well, though somehow I ate very little of it. We made a bunch of snack foods that included peanut butter cookies, cheddar popcorn, pork balls and banana bread; all luxuries we can’t get or make at site.
On Halloween we carved watermelons, which turned out to be bar superior to pumpkins. They made for excellent snacks and drinks that night. They looked great, too. Besides that we got all dressed up and partied all night. It was a great American holiday and release from Malian life.
Conclusion
So that’s it; my life thus far in Mali. I’m definitely still struggling to find my place in Yangasso, but I do feel like I’ve found my place within Peace Corps. The people here are amazing and I consider myself lucky to be in their company. I look forward to the next two years with them.
I want to thank everyone who has sent me letters and packages. Upon arrival in San, my first stop is always the post office, and the first hours are always spent pouring over letters. I keep them at site and pull them out whenever I feel lonely. Thank you so much, and I’ll do my best to keep up on my end.
Sorry this turned in to such an over view. If you have questions or want random stories, write a letter! I promise I’ll write back! I'll get pictures up as soon as possible...internet is slow here and I'm sharing my computer.
