I'm coming home for Christmas!
December 16th to January 7th.
Just booked my flight and wanted to share the news.
Hope to see you all then!
Monday, July 7, 2008
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
How to Plant a Tree: Adventures en Brousse
A few weeks ago my new site mate, Kali, and her homologue, Jude Thera, took me out en brousse to teach me about PLASA Method. We went to Tayo, a tiny, extremely motivated Bomu town of maybe a few hundred located about 10 km from Tominian. Tayo is slowly trying to reforest an area donated by village chief with the technique Jude first taught them last year. We went out to plant 20 more trees.
PLASA is a dry season tree planting technique that enables Malians to plant while they have time during dry season, as opposed to when they're working in the fields during rainy season. The technique was developed by Jude for northern, extremely dry regions. After the initial planting, trees need to be watered only about three times...ever! It works by directing tree roots down toward the water table early, instead of allowing them to grow outward when the land is saturated with water. I'm sure there's a lot more to it...ask Kali.
Step 1: Dig a deep hole...
until the soil becomes moist.
Step 2: Pick your tree.
Step 3: Build a pyramid of moist soil and fertilizer at the bottom of the hole...
Step 4: Place the tree at the center of the hole...
Step 2: Pick your tree.
Step 3: Build a pyramid of moist soil and fertilizer at the bottom of the hole...
Step 4: Place the tree at the center of the hole...fill the remaining space with rocks and build rocks up around the base of the tree.
Step 5: Smile for the camera!
Step 6: Protect your tree...
so that nothing can get in!
Step 7: Relax.
It's hot out.
The PLASA Method Masters.
Step 5: Smile for the camera!Step 6: Protect your tree...so that nothing can get in! Step 7: Relax.It's hot out.The PLASA Method Masters.Thursday, April 24, 2008
Hot season, site change and homologues
9 months have come and gone since I arrived in Mali and to be honest, sometimes I’m amazed I’m still here. I’ve never seriously considered coming home early, but looking back on some of the struggles I’ve had, I find that a bit surprising. Whatever the difficulties, and there have been many, I’m still thrilled to be here.
Hot season is in full swing. Days reaching 110˚ are the norm and we’re lucky if it drops below 90˚ at night. Malians are up at the crack of dawn to get work done because you can’t expect any productivity in the heat of the day. The heat has also made transportation a nightmare. Buses here don’t have air conditioning (not functioning AC, that is), so long rides are torturous. The only option is to fan yourself endlessly with little grass fans and drink all the water you can get. Dehydration is a constant struggle. It’s especially a challenge when the wells have dried up and water needs to be obtained from a pump a considerable distance away. On the plus side, it did rain for the first time since September. Mango rains. It lasted for about an hour and cooled us down quite a bit. I was in San with a few other PCVs, who immediately began celebrating.
Site change is still in process, but I suppose it is official enough to talk about it. My new site is Tominian, a town of about 8,000 people 45 km northeast of San. It is the circle capital and entrance to the Bobo (a minority ethnic group in both Mali and Burkina Faso) part of the country. Yes, that means I need to work on language #3; Bomu. My homologue has arranged for tutors for both French and Bomu. Tominian also happens to be Kali’s site. I’m one of very few PCVs who will have a site mate.
I’ve visited Tominian several times before to see Kali and went again last week with Macki (Peace Corps staff) and my new homologue. I met many of the people I will be working with, my homologue’s family and saw my new house. Unfortunately, my house isn’t quite ready yet, which is the reason I haven’t yet moved. They need to repair part of a wall, install screens and build a new nyegen (outdoor bathroom). Hopefully it will be done in the next week, though I’ve learned not to get my hopes up. Until then, I’m moving back and forth between Tominian, Yangasso and San, slowly moving my things over to Kali’s house.
Paul Tienou, my new homologue, is amazing. He came to IST at Tubani So and to a leadership formation held in San this past week. He works with the youth organization in Tominian and is beyond excited to get a volunteer. Beyond that, he is personally motivated; exactly what a homologue needs to be. While at the leadership formation, we brainstormed project ideas and where we wanted to be by the time I leave. My old homologue believed money (from me) had to come before any projects could start. Paul is the polar opposite. He’s already working with the kids and looking into funding possibilities. When we started talking about needed financing his first thought was to attempt to get a loan! I can’t begin to explain how huge this is for a Malian. Granted loans are very difficult to get for locals, but the fact that he’s thinking about it, believing it would be a good example for the kids is fantastic.
The most exciting things about my new site and homologue are the endless project possibilities. Brainstorming with Kali and Paul is so much fun. Paul has talked about a children’s garden, which could also lead to projects with improved farming techniques and produce transformation; things I’ve been learning about for the past few months. Kali also has 6 sewing machines donated by USAID, so we’re planning a project together with a women’s organization for sewing classes and the use of the machines as an income generating activity. Junior Achievement is still in the works, though perhaps delayed until the next school year, as well as projects in shea nuts/butter and the building of soak pits for runoff water from nyegens. It’s thrilling to feel motivated again!
Hot season is in full swing. Days reaching 110˚ are the norm and we’re lucky if it drops below 90˚ at night. Malians are up at the crack of dawn to get work done because you can’t expect any productivity in the heat of the day. The heat has also made transportation a nightmare. Buses here don’t have air conditioning (not functioning AC, that is), so long rides are torturous. The only option is to fan yourself endlessly with little grass fans and drink all the water you can get. Dehydration is a constant struggle. It’s especially a challenge when the wells have dried up and water needs to be obtained from a pump a considerable distance away. On the plus side, it did rain for the first time since September. Mango rains. It lasted for about an hour and cooled us down quite a bit. I was in San with a few other PCVs, who immediately began celebrating.
Site change is still in process, but I suppose it is official enough to talk about it. My new site is Tominian, a town of about 8,000 people 45 km northeast of San. It is the circle capital and entrance to the Bobo (a minority ethnic group in both Mali and Burkina Faso) part of the country. Yes, that means I need to work on language #3; Bomu. My homologue has arranged for tutors for both French and Bomu. Tominian also happens to be Kali’s site. I’m one of very few PCVs who will have a site mate.
I’ve visited Tominian several times before to see Kali and went again last week with Macki (Peace Corps staff) and my new homologue. I met many of the people I will be working with, my homologue’s family and saw my new house. Unfortunately, my house isn’t quite ready yet, which is the reason I haven’t yet moved. They need to repair part of a wall, install screens and build a new nyegen (outdoor bathroom). Hopefully it will be done in the next week, though I’ve learned not to get my hopes up. Until then, I’m moving back and forth between Tominian, Yangasso and San, slowly moving my things over to Kali’s house.
Paul Tienou, my new homologue, is amazing. He came to IST at Tubani So and to a leadership formation held in San this past week. He works with the youth organization in Tominian and is beyond excited to get a volunteer. Beyond that, he is personally motivated; exactly what a homologue needs to be. While at the leadership formation, we brainstormed project ideas and where we wanted to be by the time I leave. My old homologue believed money (from me) had to come before any projects could start. Paul is the polar opposite. He’s already working with the kids and looking into funding possibilities. When we started talking about needed financing his first thought was to attempt to get a loan! I can’t begin to explain how huge this is for a Malian. Granted loans are very difficult to get for locals, but the fact that he’s thinking about it, believing it would be a good example for the kids is fantastic.
The most exciting things about my new site and homologue are the endless project possibilities. Brainstorming with Kali and Paul is so much fun. Paul has talked about a children’s garden, which could also lead to projects with improved farming techniques and produce transformation; things I’ve been learning about for the past few months. Kali also has 6 sewing machines donated by USAID, so we’re planning a project together with a women’s organization for sewing classes and the use of the machines as an income generating activity. Junior Achievement is still in the works, though perhaps delayed until the next school year, as well as projects in shea nuts/butter and the building of soak pits for runoff water from nyegens. It’s thrilling to feel motivated again!
Tuesday, April 1, 2008
Apologies for a boring post
So I wasn't ready for hot season. Not really. Heat during the day is one thing, but it should cool off at night. I've come to accept that it will be hot for the next three months, but I'm counting down the minutes until the rains come and wishing I could go on vacation to the beach again.
I've just begun to under stand the reality of hot season in such a poor country. Yes, I'm hot all the time, but that's hardly the biggest concern for Malians. Wells have started to dry up and produce is quickly disappearing. People are also starting to save food (grains and such) for when the rains come and they need to work in the fields. In some households, three meals a day have already been reduced to two. I think these are going to be some of the toughest months yet.
As far as my service has gone, not much has happened since my return from Senegal. I went back to site to continue to try to make things work. They haven't. My site change was finally approved a few weeks ago and now I'm waiting on a house. I don't want to say too much about the new site yet...at least not until I've actually moved in and gotten to know my new coworkers. I don't know, I just don't want to jinx it! Hopefully I'll move soon.
Right now I'm in Bamako for several training sessions. First is Junior Achievement. There are only 10 PCVs or so that came in to learn about the program, and Tubani So is wierdly empty with hardly anyone here. Next week everyone is coming in for April IST (all Breakfast Clubbers and some Belushis). Fingers crossed that I'll be moving the next week, after which there will be one more SED training in San.
A lot of the PCVs I came with are starting to fly home to visit (most are going in May and June) and some are meeting up with family members in not-so-terrifying countries (Morocco, Spain, Italy...). I can't believe how long we've been here. The new group of volunteers arriving in July have started getting invitations. I'm anxious to come home to see everyone, which unfortunately won't be until Christmas.
Sorry this is a lame post. Nothing has happened here! My day to day life is surprisingly boring, especially in the heat when I sit around and read all the time. That said, I have excellent book recommendations if anyone needs some!
I've just begun to under stand the reality of hot season in such a poor country. Yes, I'm hot all the time, but that's hardly the biggest concern for Malians. Wells have started to dry up and produce is quickly disappearing. People are also starting to save food (grains and such) for when the rains come and they need to work in the fields. In some households, three meals a day have already been reduced to two. I think these are going to be some of the toughest months yet.
As far as my service has gone, not much has happened since my return from Senegal. I went back to site to continue to try to make things work. They haven't. My site change was finally approved a few weeks ago and now I'm waiting on a house. I don't want to say too much about the new site yet...at least not until I've actually moved in and gotten to know my new coworkers. I don't know, I just don't want to jinx it! Hopefully I'll move soon.
Right now I'm in Bamako for several training sessions. First is Junior Achievement. There are only 10 PCVs or so that came in to learn about the program, and Tubani So is wierdly empty with hardly anyone here. Next week everyone is coming in for April IST (all Breakfast Clubbers and some Belushis). Fingers crossed that I'll be moving the next week, after which there will be one more SED training in San.
A lot of the PCVs I came with are starting to fly home to visit (most are going in May and June) and some are meeting up with family members in not-so-terrifying countries (Morocco, Spain, Italy...). I can't believe how long we've been here. The new group of volunteers arriving in July have started getting invitations. I'm anxious to come home to see everyone, which unfortunately won't be until Christmas.
Sorry this is a lame post. Nothing has happened here! My day to day life is surprisingly boring, especially in the heat when I sit around and read all the time. That said, I have excellent book recommendations if anyone needs some!
Tuesday, February 26, 2008
Senegal
These past few weeks I got the opportunity to travel outside of Mali for the first time since I moved here. It was an insane week, and completely worth the time and money.
The trip began with about 40 Mali PCVs meeting in Bamako to get on the bus we chartered to take us all the way to Dakar. We left at about 8 am, and the party started by 8:30. The first leg of the journey lasted about 12 hours, from Bamako to Kayes (supposedly the third hottest city in the world), where we spent the first night. We left early the next morning for the roughly 24 hour ride through Senegal on a terrible road to Dakar. What should have been an extremely long ride was actually insanely fun. We don’t get to see each other all that often, so throw 40 of us on a bus and we’ll have a good time. We spent all hours of the night and day listening to music, talking, playing cards and dancing (yes, on the bus).
We definitely went through culture shock upon arrival in Dakar. All the roads are paved, there are no open sewers, trash is not littered all over the streets, there are tons of tall buildings, most of which are finished, and there are countless restaurant choices. In other words, Dakar is a city that could fit into the US.
After dropping out stuff at a hotel we headed out to the American Club, which was incredible. Overlooking the ocean, the club has a beautiful pool, tennis and volleyball courts, a snack bar and regular bar, and, of course, the softball fields. The first four days were spent in pretty much the same fashion. After taking public transport to the club, we’d spend the day swimming, going to the softball games, drinking, eating delicious food, dancing and hanging out with other volunteers. Every night there were parties at various clubs or houses, which were always a good time.
Peace Corps Mali brought about 50 volunteers. The tournament brought in somewhere around 300 English speakers total. Peace Corps had volunteers from Mali, Mauritania, Benin, Senegal, the Gambia and Guinea. There were also several ex-pat teams. Our team did pretty well, winning the first four games and then losing in semi-finals. We did, however, have the best uniforms and cheering section.
Our jersey’s are traditional Bobo shirts and the hats are traditionally Dogon. Yes, people do wear those hats seriously here. We had a ton of people at the tournament trying to buy our outfits. What can I say, we just looked that good.
After nearly a week of insanity, we needed a few days to recover before the long ride back. About 30 Mali PCVs ended up at the beach together. We rented three houses in the little town of Popenguine, about two hours south of Dakar. The beach was stunning, and we had a great time swimming and body surfing every day. It definitely took all our will power to get off that beach.
The ride back from Senegal could be a blog entry in itself. It was eventful, to say the least. About 15 of us left Popenguine together on a crappy little bus hired to take us all the way to Kayes. 24 hours into a truly terrible ride, we arrived at the border, where our driver refused to take us any further. After spending six hours at the police station (luckily the police we on our side), we finally got some money back to hire a different car the rest of the way to Kayes. Once in Kayes, we were tricked into taking a bus later than we had intended after our taxi driver was bribed to lie to us. Then the final bus to Bamako kept tripping over that final stretch before the finish line. It left hours late, broke down several times, stopped to pick up people whose bus had also broken down to drop them in the next town and got us into Bamako quite a bit later that expected, causing us to have to spend the night in the capital.
However, all things said and done, the trip was incredible. I feel very lucky to have been able to make the journey, and hope to do so again next year. I'll try to get some pictures up, but I am having some computer problems. I'll get them up when I can. Let me also state that I am thrilled (can you hear the sarcasm?) to have returned in time for hot season. Bring it on, Mali, I’m ready.
Tuesday, February 5, 2008
The internet has arrived in San!
Well, I’m back at site (off and on), where life has continued without change for the past few months. Being away for so long, I felt like things would have changed…but people barely noticed I was gone.
Upon returning to site I had a meeting with my homologue, supervisor, a few women from the association, and my APCD (Peace Corps boss). We gave my town a deadline, the end of February, to pull things together. They have since assigned me an assistant homologue who speaks only Bambara. The plus side is that it forces me to use my Bambara, which is slowly coming along.
I was also able to read the five year development plan that the mayor’s office wrote. It was useful in getting project ideas, though overwhelming in seeing everything that needs to be done. I also find it frustrating that the budget has a section of “necessary” funds from NGOs. About 90% of the money needed to complete the goals is expected to come from outside funding. In other words, they haven’t done anything to further these goals besides wait for some tubob to hand them money.
The main project in Yangasso is the women’s garden, which is slowly coming along. The first thing the women want me to do is give them money for a new fence. I’m hesitant to hand over the money before they show me any willingness to work. However, once the garden is further developed, there are possibilities for other projects such as solar drying and new fertilizing techniques.
In other news, I just returned from the Festival sur la Niger, the music festival in Segou. It was a great experience. The festival lasted three days, with artisan and cultural dances during the day and incredible concerts at night. The stage was built on the river (as a matter of fact, one of the performers, Habib Koite, fell off the stage into the river at one point). I feel lucky to have been able to attend. Now I’m looking forward to WAIST in Senegal…we leave next week!
Sorry this is short, but there’s really not much to say. We finally have internet in San, so hopefully I’ll be able to update more often (though not too much because it’s insanely expensive). I’m trying to put pictures up today, so check them out!
Upon returning to site I had a meeting with my homologue, supervisor, a few women from the association, and my APCD (Peace Corps boss). We gave my town a deadline, the end of February, to pull things together. They have since assigned me an assistant homologue who speaks only Bambara. The plus side is that it forces me to use my Bambara, which is slowly coming along.
I was also able to read the five year development plan that the mayor’s office wrote. It was useful in getting project ideas, though overwhelming in seeing everything that needs to be done. I also find it frustrating that the budget has a section of “necessary” funds from NGOs. About 90% of the money needed to complete the goals is expected to come from outside funding. In other words, they haven’t done anything to further these goals besides wait for some tubob to hand them money.
The main project in Yangasso is the women’s garden, which is slowly coming along. The first thing the women want me to do is give them money for a new fence. I’m hesitant to hand over the money before they show me any willingness to work. However, once the garden is further developed, there are possibilities for other projects such as solar drying and new fertilizing techniques.
In other news, I just returned from the Festival sur la Niger, the music festival in Segou. It was a great experience. The festival lasted three days, with artisan and cultural dances during the day and incredible concerts at night. The stage was built on the river (as a matter of fact, one of the performers, Habib Koite, fell off the stage into the river at one point). I feel lucky to have been able to attend. Now I’m looking forward to WAIST in Senegal…we leave next week!
Sorry this is short, but there’s really not much to say. We finally have internet in San, so hopefully I’ll be able to update more often (though not too much because it’s insanely expensive). I’m trying to put pictures up today, so check them out!
Tuesday, January 8, 2008
Happy New Year!
Three months at site and…nothing to show for it. Unfortunately that’s how I’m feeling at the moment. Site has been a challenge, and I’m still struggling to find my place in the village. I’ve spent the past three months reading, cooking, and attempting to find anyone willing to help. I’ve been unsuccessful. At this point I’m unsure if my site will work out, but that definitely does not mean I’ll be coming home. If progress cannot be made in the near future, I’ll change sites and start all over again. In the mean time, I’m going to focus on and share some of the positive things that have happened over the past few months.
The family I live with in Yangasso continues to be fantastic. The kids are always helpful in picking up random Bambara phrases. Ama is no longer terrified of me, and loves delivering my lunch everyday. She’s also started trying to copy everything her older sisters do. If someone is sweeping the concession, she picks up a stick to “help.” If someone is pulling water from the well, she’ll grab the loose end of rope and wave it around. She makes you realize how alike kids are all over the world.
San kaw is fantastic, as always. They have been an incredible support system here, and are the reason I haven’t gone crazy. If it had not been for them, I probably would have left early. They keep me focused on the positive aspects of Mali and provide great relief when needed. We’ve also gained quite a reputation for our dance parties and amazing cooking.
The San family also made my first Christmas away from home very enjoyable and memorable. After coming back from a Thanksgiving celebration, Kali and I started to decorate for Christmas. We covered the stage house in tinsel, 4 mini trees, stockings, lights, etc., as well as a huge “Merry Christmas” sign we spent many hours on. All of San kaw came to the house for the holiday. We stuffed each other’s (and our own) stockings and did Secret Santas. My favorite stocking stuffers were the slingshots Kali and I bought for everyone, including ourselves. Christmas morning, everyone went to church besides Kali and me, while we baked delicious banana bread. We also got lots of fun new Malian clothes made. Overall, the holiday as good as I could have expected
Another huge plus of the moment...it's cold season! I've been absolutely freezing for the past several weeks. I have no idea how cold it actually is, but I've been wearing layers and bundling up in blankets every night. Last night we built a bonfire and cuddled around it wrapped up in wool blankets. Cold season also means the best produce. We've all been spoiled by carrots, green beans, onions, potatoes, eggplants, watermelons, papayas and cabbage. Have you ever fully appreciated cabbage before?
I came in to Bamako a few days before training here in Tubani So began. I was hoping to get my computer fixed (it apparently has a virus, which I can’t understand since I never have internet access) and talk to my APCD, but they IT guy and Seydou were never at the bureau. Instead I focused on the food. Salad bars, ice cream, brie, wine, chocolate chip pancakes…it was a fantastic week. Now I’m at the Peace Corps training site to get more technical and language training (though which language is yet to be decided). Hopefully I’ll be able to work out a few of the site issues I’ve been having as well. I'm also in the middle of planning my upcoming trip to Senegal for WAIST (the West African International Softball Tournament). It's a huge tournament of ex-pats and PCVs from all over West Africa on the beach near Dakar. No, I will not be playing but cheering on my PC Mali team.
I’m sorry I’ve been so bad about updating. I’m told we now have internet in San, so hopefully it will be more regular from here on out. For now, it’s really hard to write about what’s happened over the past several months. Things that used to seem so strange are now normal, so I forget to mention them. So…if you have any questions, let me know and I’ll try to write at least one more entry before I leave Tubani So. Thanks again for all of your support!
The family I live with in Yangasso continues to be fantastic. The kids are always helpful in picking up random Bambara phrases. Ama is no longer terrified of me, and loves delivering my lunch everyday. She’s also started trying to copy everything her older sisters do. If someone is sweeping the concession, she picks up a stick to “help.” If someone is pulling water from the well, she’ll grab the loose end of rope and wave it around. She makes you realize how alike kids are all over the world.
San kaw is fantastic, as always. They have been an incredible support system here, and are the reason I haven’t gone crazy. If it had not been for them, I probably would have left early. They keep me focused on the positive aspects of Mali and provide great relief when needed. We’ve also gained quite a reputation for our dance parties and amazing cooking.
The San family also made my first Christmas away from home very enjoyable and memorable. After coming back from a Thanksgiving celebration, Kali and I started to decorate for Christmas. We covered the stage house in tinsel, 4 mini trees, stockings, lights, etc., as well as a huge “Merry Christmas” sign we spent many hours on. All of San kaw came to the house for the holiday. We stuffed each other’s (and our own) stockings and did Secret Santas. My favorite stocking stuffers were the slingshots Kali and I bought for everyone, including ourselves. Christmas morning, everyone went to church besides Kali and me, while we baked delicious banana bread. We also got lots of fun new Malian clothes made. Overall, the holiday as good as I could have expected
Another huge plus of the moment...it's cold season! I've been absolutely freezing for the past several weeks. I have no idea how cold it actually is, but I've been wearing layers and bundling up in blankets every night. Last night we built a bonfire and cuddled around it wrapped up in wool blankets. Cold season also means the best produce. We've all been spoiled by carrots, green beans, onions, potatoes, eggplants, watermelons, papayas and cabbage. Have you ever fully appreciated cabbage before?
I came in to Bamako a few days before training here in Tubani So began. I was hoping to get my computer fixed (it apparently has a virus, which I can’t understand since I never have internet access) and talk to my APCD, but they IT guy and Seydou were never at the bureau. Instead I focused on the food. Salad bars, ice cream, brie, wine, chocolate chip pancakes…it was a fantastic week. Now I’m at the Peace Corps training site to get more technical and language training (though which language is yet to be decided). Hopefully I’ll be able to work out a few of the site issues I’ve been having as well. I'm also in the middle of planning my upcoming trip to Senegal for WAIST (the West African International Softball Tournament). It's a huge tournament of ex-pats and PCVs from all over West Africa on the beach near Dakar. No, I will not be playing but cheering on my PC Mali team.
I’m sorry I’ve been so bad about updating. I’m told we now have internet in San, so hopefully it will be more regular from here on out. For now, it’s really hard to write about what’s happened over the past several months. Things that used to seem so strange are now normal, so I forget to mention them. So…if you have any questions, let me know and I’ll try to write at least one more entry before I leave Tubani So. Thanks again for all of your support!
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