Senegal

These past few weeks I got the opportunity to travel outside of Mali for the first time since I moved here. It was an insane week, and completely worth the time and money.

The trip began with about 40 Mali PCVs meeting in Bamako to get on the bus we chartered to take us all the way to Dakar. We left at about 8 am, and the party started by 8:30. The first leg of the journey lasted about 12 hours, from Bamako to Kayes (supposedly the third hottest city in the world), where we spent the first night. We left early the next morning for the roughly 24 hour ride through Senegal on a terrible road to Dakar. What should have been an extremely long ride was actually insanely fun. We don’t get to see each other all that often, so throw 40 of us on a bus and we’ll have a good time. We spent all hours of the night and day listening to music, talking, playing cards and dancing (yes, on the bus).

We definitely went through culture shock upon arrival in Dakar. All the roads are paved, there are no open sewers, trash is not littered all over the streets, there are tons of tall buildings, most of which are finished, and there are countless restaurant choices. In other words, Dakar is a city that could fit into the US.

After dropping out stuff at a hotel we headed out to the American Club, which was incredible. Overlooking the ocean, the club has a beautiful pool, tennis and volleyball courts, a snack bar and regular bar, and, of course, the softball fields. The first four days were spent in pretty much the same fashion. After taking public transport to the club, we’d spend the day swimming, going to the softball games, drinking, eating delicious food, dancing and hanging out with other volunteers. Every night there were parties at various clubs or houses, which were always a good time.

Peace Corps Mali brought about 50 volunteers. The tournament brought in somewhere around 300 English speakers total. Peace Corps had volunteers from Mali, Mauritania, Benin, Senegal, the Gambia and Guinea. There were also several ex-pat teams. Our team did pretty well, winning the first four games and then losing in semi-finals. We did, however, have the best uniforms and cheering section.

Our jersey’s are traditional Bobo shirts and the hats are traditionally Dogon. Yes, people do wear those hats seriously here. We had a ton of people at the tournament trying to buy our outfits. What can I say, we just looked that good.

After nearly a week of insanity, we needed a few days to recover before the long ride back. About 30 Mali PCVs ended up at the beach together. We rented three houses in the little town of Popenguine, about two hours south of Dakar. The beach was stunning, and we had a great time swimming and body surfing every day. It definitely took all our will power to get off that beach.

The ride back from Senegal could be a blog entry in itself. It was eventful, to say the least. About 15 of us left Popenguine together on a crappy little bus hired to take us all the way to Kayes. 24 hours into a truly terrible ride, we arrived at the border, where our driver refused to take us any further. After spending six hours at the police station (luckily the police we on our side), we finally got some money back to hire a different car the rest of the way to Kayes. Once in Kayes, we were tricked into taking a bus later than we had intended after our taxi driver was bribed to lie to us. Then the final bus to Bamako kept tripping over that final stretch before the finish line. It left hours late, broke down several times, stopped to pick up people whose bus had also broken down to drop them in the next town and got us into Bamako quite a bit later that expected, causing us to have to spend the night in the capital.

However, all things said and done, the trip was incredible. I feel very lucky to have been able to make the journey, and hope to do so again next year. I'll try to get some pictures up, but I am having some computer problems. I'll get them up when I can. Let me also state that I am thrilled (can you hear the sarcasm?) to have returned in time for hot season. Bring it on, Mali, I’m ready.

The internet has arrived in San!

Well, I’m back at site (off and on), where life has continued without change for the past few months. Being away for so long, I felt like things would have changed…but people barely noticed I was gone.

Upon returning to site I had a meeting with my homologue, supervisor, a few women from the association, and my APCD (Peace Corps boss). We gave my town a deadline, the end of February, to pull things together. They have since assigned me an assistant homologue who speaks only Bambara. The plus side is that it forces me to use my Bambara, which is slowly coming along.

I was also able to read the five year development plan that the mayor’s office wrote. It was useful in getting project ideas, though overwhelming in seeing everything that needs to be done. I also find it frustrating that the budget has a section of “necessary” funds from NGOs. About 90% of the money needed to complete the goals is expected to come from outside funding. In other words, they haven’t done anything to further these goals besides wait for some tubob to hand them money.

The main project in Yangasso is the women’s garden, which is slowly coming along. The first thing the women want me to do is give them money for a new fence. I’m hesitant to hand over the money before they show me any willingness to work. However, once the garden is further developed, there are possibilities for other projects such as solar drying and new fertilizing techniques.

In other news, I just returned from the Festival sur la Niger, the music festival in Segou. It was a great experience. The festival lasted three days, with artisan and cultural dances during the day and incredible concerts at night. The stage was built on the river (as a matter of fact, one of the performers, Habib Koite, fell off the stage into the river at one point). I feel lucky to have been able to attend. Now I’m looking forward to WAIST in Senegal…we leave next week!

Sorry this is short, but there’s really not much to say. We finally have internet in San, so hopefully I’ll be able to update more often (though not too much because it’s insanely expensive). I’m trying to put pictures up today, so check them out!

Happy New Year!

Three months at site and…nothing to show for it. Unfortunately that’s how I’m feeling at the moment. Site has been a challenge, and I’m still struggling to find my place in the village. I’ve spent the past three months reading, cooking, and attempting to find anyone willing to help. I’ve been unsuccessful. At this point I’m unsure if my site will work out, but that definitely does not mean I’ll be coming home. If progress cannot be made in the near future, I’ll change sites and start all over again. In the mean time, I’m going to focus on and share some of the positive things that have happened over the past few months.

The family I live with in Yangasso continues to be fantastic. The kids are always helpful in picking up random Bambara phrases. Ama is no longer terrified of me, and loves delivering my lunch everyday. She’s also started trying to copy everything her older sisters do. If someone is sweeping the concession, she picks up a stick to “help.” If someone is pulling water from the well, she’ll grab the loose end of rope and wave it around. She makes you realize how alike kids are all over the world.

San kaw is fantastic, as always. They have been an incredible support system here, and are the reason I haven’t gone crazy. If it had not been for them, I probably would have left early. They keep me focused on the positive aspects of Mali and provide great relief when needed. We’ve also gained quite a reputation for our dance parties and amazing cooking.

The San family also made my first Christmas away from home very enjoyable and memorable. After coming back from a Thanksgiving celebration, Kali and I started to decorate for Christmas. We covered the stage house in tinsel, 4 mini trees, stockings, lights, etc., as well as a huge “Merry Christmas” sign we spent many hours on. All of San kaw came to the house for the holiday. We stuffed each other’s (and our own) stockings and did Secret Santas. My favorite stocking stuffers were the slingshots Kali and I bought for everyone, including ourselves. Christmas morning, everyone went to church besides Kali and me, while we baked delicious banana bread. We also got lots of fun new Malian clothes made. Overall, the holiday as good as I could have expected

Another huge plus of the moment...it's cold season! I've been absolutely freezing for the past several weeks. I have no idea how cold it actually is, but I've been wearing layers and bundling up in blankets every night. Last night we built a bonfire and cuddled around it wrapped up in wool blankets. Cold season also means the best produce. We've all been spoiled by carrots, green beans, onions, potatoes, eggplants, watermelons, papayas and cabbage. Have you ever fully appreciated cabbage before?

I came in to Bamako a few days before training here in Tubani So began. I was hoping to get my computer fixed (it apparently has a virus, which I can’t understand since I never have internet access) and talk to my APCD, but they IT guy and Seydou were never at the bureau. Instead I focused on the food. Salad bars, ice cream, brie, wine, chocolate chip pancakes…it was a fantastic week. Now I’m at the Peace Corps training site to get more technical and language training (though which language is yet to be decided). Hopefully I’ll be able to work out a few of the site issues I’ve been having as well. I'm also in the middle of planning my upcoming trip to Senegal for WAIST (the West African International Softball Tournament). It's a huge tournament of ex-pats and PCVs from all over West Africa on the beach near Dakar. No, I will not be playing but cheering on my PC Mali team.

I’m sorry I’ve been so bad about updating. I’m told we now have internet in San, so hopefully it will be more regular from here on out. For now, it’s really hard to write about what’s happened over the past several months. Things that used to seem so strange are now normal, so I forget to mention them. So…if you have any questions, let me know and I’ll try to write at least one more entry before I leave Tubani So. Thanks again for all of your support!

Yay, an Update!

Introduction

It’s been a month and a half since my last update, and things have changed completely. The rigid schedule of training is gone while long, tedious days have set in. I’m no longer constantly surrounded by other new volunteers. I’m the only toubob in Yangasso, and when I do see other Americans, it’s a good mixture of the Breakfast Club and Belushis. Training was hard, but new difficulties have set in to make the first months here even more challenging. Though having some freedom now definitely has its perks. There’s a lot to say, so I’m going to break it up a bit…

Part I- Installation and Village Life

As you know, I was “installed” in late September. We got off to a rough start when we were in a bus accident on our way to site. We ran into a truck that was turning in front of us, ran over a motorcycle and ran off the road. I thought we were going to flip over. Miraculously, no one was seriously injured, though they had o bring us out a new bus. Anyways…

The five of us new to San kaw, Susie, Rachel, Stephanie, Nicole and I stopped in Segou and San on our way to site to do some shopping. We bought the basics for our homes that can’t be purchased at site. Stephanie and I installed first, which was a little bit terrifying. The Peace Corps helps to unload your stuff, and then leaves. You’re then on your own. Completely. Luckily I have the stage house to meet up with other volunteers to “debrief.”

My house is really nice by Malian standards. It’s a three room cement building with a tin roof on the west edge of town. As I’ve mentioned, I share a concession with a Malian family. My first day some neighbors built me a hangar, or guwa, for shade. I enjoy sitting outside reading and watching the family next door every day.

I’ve gotten the feel of Yangasso; it’s slower pace and agricultural focus. Cows, sheep and goats are herded past my concession every day, and donkeys pull carts piled with millet and corn. The market takes over on Tuesdays, when people come from surrounding villages to sell crops, fruits and vegetables, fabric, dead-toubob clothes and household items. It used to terrify me but I’m starting to pick up its rhythm. Though, I still find it difficult to be able to buy fresh produce only once a week. It rots quickly in this heat, and there are very few means of storage.

Part II- The Family

I’ve mentioned my homologue and neighbors, so it’s time to introduce you to the people in my life. My work counterparts are Mariam (or Mamu) and Diarra Coulibaly. They are two very strong and relatively educated women. Both have worked in the mayor’s office, and both are actively involved in the women’s association. I’ve also started working at the local school a bit, and have gotten to know the English teacher, Monsieur Thera, quite well.

My neighbors are the people I’ve gotten to know the best. Kasim has one wife, Aminata, two sons and three daughters. They are (with estimated ages) Bobsi (13), Moussa (11), La (9), Bailo (6) and Ama (2). Ama used to be terrified of me, screaming and crying whenever I came near. After about a month she warmed up. She loves bringing me my lunch everday. Bailo is my favorite. She was very worried when I was sick last week and informed me that I need to drink water with medicine mashed up in it.

Part III- My Work and the Challenges

So I guess people want to know what exactly I do here. A fellow PCV put it well when he said “anyone who lives vicariously through me obviously knows nothing about my life.” Honestly, I don’t do anything. At least, not yet. I try to study language and get to know the community. I go to the meeting for the women’s association every Sunday, but unfortunately they only speak Bambara. I’m also stating to help teach English in the secondary school. Besides that I sit, read, yaala yaala, clean, etc.

As I said before, a new life, new difficulties. Language is a big one. I spent all of training learning French but need Bambara at site. My homologue is often out of town, so I struggle to fill my time. Days are long. The abuse here is also very hard to deal with, especially in the schools. No matter how much I see it, I can’t (and don’t want to) get used to seeing teachers hit students. This is a new challenge that I haven’t yet found a solution for.

Part IV- My American Life

That’s all there really is to my Malian life here, but I do have an American side as well It’s in San. Every week or two the other volunteers and I head in to the stage house to recover. In San we can do some shopping that you can’t do at site (tuna, ketchup, produce every day, orange juice, cold soda and sweet frozen yogurt…as in yogurt that is frozen). At the stage house we enjoy electricity, ceiling fans, a stove and refrigerator, toilets and running water. More than anything we enjoy each other. Let me introduce you to San kaw:

The Breakfast Club:
Me- Malian alter ego Worokia Coulibaly
Susie- the other SED volunteer from Tennessee living in Kimparana
Nicole- super NRM volunteer furthest from San, excellent cook
Rachel- Ag volunteer in N’Torosso whose crazy enough to bike 3 hours to San in the heat
Stephani- NRM volunteer crazy enough to bike with Rachel

Belushis:
Kali- the one I’ve gotten to know best, fellow Incredible, NRM from central New York and a huge help thus far
Tamara- Ag or NRM volunteer who just went to Ghana
Patience- insanely kind SED volunteer who runs the behind the scenes work at the stage house
Jam- the missing Belushi who rarely leaves her site

Yup, we’re a girl’s club. Luckily it’s a great group of people who I really enjoy. Let’s take Halloween as an example…

Last week San hosted Halloween for 25 or so PCVs. Kali was in charge an did an incredible job. I tried to help out, but it was pure chaos (insanely fun chaos, that is). I got to San a few days eary to get my costume together and help set up. The theme was superheroes and villains, though only half of us followed the theme. Kali, Nicole and I went as the Incredibles (make sure to check out pictures of Flickr).

The day before a ton of people showed up; a little earlier than expected. We all spent the day getting caught up as it was the first time we’d seen PCVs from out of region since training. Kali and I cooked like mad in the sweltering kitchen. I’m told the food turned out well, though somehow I ate very little of it. We made a bunch of snack foods that included peanut butter cookies, cheddar popcorn, pork balls and banana bread; all luxuries we can’t get or make at site.

On Halloween we carved watermelons, which turned out to be bar superior to pumpkins. They made for excellent snacks and drinks that night. They looked great, too. Besides that we got all dressed up and partied all night. It was a great American holiday and release from Malian life.

Conclusion

So that’s it; my life thus far in Mali. I’m definitely still struggling to find my place in Yangasso, but I do feel like I’ve found my place within Peace Corps. The people here are amazing and I consider myself lucky to be in their company. I look forward to the next two years with them.

I want to thank everyone who has sent me letters and packages. Upon arrival in San, my first stop is always the post office, and the first hours are always spent pouring over letters. I keep them at site and pull them out whenever I feel lonely. Thank you so much, and I’ll do my best to keep up on my end.

Sorry this turned in to such an over view. If you have questions or want random stories, write a letter! I promise I’ll write back! I'll get pictures up as soon as possible...internet is slow here and I'm sharing my computer.

The Breakfast Club

The last few days have been a whirlwind. After swear in morning, all of the new PCVs headed to Bamako for the night to party with PCVs from past classes. There was a lot of drinking, dancing and late night swimming. One of the highlights was the naming of my PCV class. Every year, the group who swore in the previous year names the newcomers. Three classes ago they were the “Cleavers” because they were so well behaved. Last year’s class was the first huge group of over 70 new rowdy volunteers. They were appropriately named the Belushi’s. We were named “the Breakfast Club,” apparently because of our very diverse group of people.

We leave tomorrow morning for our sites…bright and early at 6am (following breakfast at 5). Honestly, I’m absolutely terrified. My language skills are not great, especially since I’ve been learning French but most people in my village speak only Bambara. They’ve also given us very little direction about what we’ll be doing the next few months. We’re not allowed to start projects until after IST (in-service training) in January, so this first phase is only evaluating the community and working on language.

More than anything, I’m nervous about the isolation. I’ve developed some close relationships with other volunteers, who I most likely won’t see for four months. I’m also losing my internet access. The closest is in Segou, a couple of hours away by bus. I’ll be lucky to update once a month or so. What I’m trying to get at is that my nerves are getting to me at the moment, though I am really excited to get going. So basically, please call or send letters whenever you have a chance!

Hopefully everything will work out for the best. If I can make through this next phase I’ll be able to last the two years. Being an official volunteer is great; but being an official volunteer who speaks the language will be even better. Wish me luck!

Swear In

We officially swore in as volunteers this morning. The ceremony felt a lot like college graduation with Malian clothes. It took place at the American embassy. Speeches were made by representatives of the Peace Corps and the Malian government, the American Ambassador, and several volunteers (in each of the five languages being learned). Like every employee of the United States government, we stood up and took the oath. The ceremony was followed by lunch at the Ambassador's home (which was absolutely delicious), and hundreds of pictures....some of which are up of flickr. Now we're hanging out here for a few hours before heading to Bamako to celebrate for the night.

It feels fantastic to finally be an official volunteer. No longer a PCT, we've made it past the first hurdle. I hope the next two years are all I hope them to be.

Malian Birthday

I wanted to thank everyone who made by birthday so enjoyable. I had a wonderful day. It started with a surprise phone call from some friends from home and was followed by my finally being able to open the birthday gifts that have been sitting in my room for weeks. I loved being able to talk to family, as always. My friends here were fantastic, and ensured with the kitchen staff that I got a fantastic cake. Thanks again, and there are a few new pictures up on flickr.