Yay, an Update!

Introduction

It’s been a month and a half since my last update, and things have changed completely. The rigid schedule of training is gone while long, tedious days have set in. I’m no longer constantly surrounded by other new volunteers. I’m the only toubob in Yangasso, and when I do see other Americans, it’s a good mixture of the Breakfast Club and Belushis. Training was hard, but new difficulties have set in to make the first months here even more challenging. Though having some freedom now definitely has its perks. There’s a lot to say, so I’m going to break it up a bit…

Part I- Installation and Village Life

As you know, I was “installed” in late September. We got off to a rough start when we were in a bus accident on our way to site. We ran into a truck that was turning in front of us, ran over a motorcycle and ran off the road. I thought we were going to flip over. Miraculously, no one was seriously injured, though they had o bring us out a new bus. Anyways…

The five of us new to San kaw, Susie, Rachel, Stephanie, Nicole and I stopped in Segou and San on our way to site to do some shopping. We bought the basics for our homes that can’t be purchased at site. Stephanie and I installed first, which was a little bit terrifying. The Peace Corps helps to unload your stuff, and then leaves. You’re then on your own. Completely. Luckily I have the stage house to meet up with other volunteers to “debrief.”

My house is really nice by Malian standards. It’s a three room cement building with a tin roof on the west edge of town. As I’ve mentioned, I share a concession with a Malian family. My first day some neighbors built me a hangar, or guwa, for shade. I enjoy sitting outside reading and watching the family next door every day.

I’ve gotten the feel of Yangasso; it’s slower pace and agricultural focus. Cows, sheep and goats are herded past my concession every day, and donkeys pull carts piled with millet and corn. The market takes over on Tuesdays, when people come from surrounding villages to sell crops, fruits and vegetables, fabric, dead-toubob clothes and household items. It used to terrify me but I’m starting to pick up its rhythm. Though, I still find it difficult to be able to buy fresh produce only once a week. It rots quickly in this heat, and there are very few means of storage.

Part II- The Family

I’ve mentioned my homologue and neighbors, so it’s time to introduce you to the people in my life. My work counterparts are Mariam (or Mamu) and Diarra Coulibaly. They are two very strong and relatively educated women. Both have worked in the mayor’s office, and both are actively involved in the women’s association. I’ve also started working at the local school a bit, and have gotten to know the English teacher, Monsieur Thera, quite well.

My neighbors are the people I’ve gotten to know the best. Kasim has one wife, Aminata, two sons and three daughters. They are (with estimated ages) Bobsi (13), Moussa (11), La (9), Bailo (6) and Ama (2). Ama used to be terrified of me, screaming and crying whenever I came near. After about a month she warmed up. She loves bringing me my lunch everday. Bailo is my favorite. She was very worried when I was sick last week and informed me that I need to drink water with medicine mashed up in it.

Part III- My Work and the Challenges

So I guess people want to know what exactly I do here. A fellow PCV put it well when he said “anyone who lives vicariously through me obviously knows nothing about my life.” Honestly, I don’t do anything. At least, not yet. I try to study language and get to know the community. I go to the meeting for the women’s association every Sunday, but unfortunately they only speak Bambara. I’m also stating to help teach English in the secondary school. Besides that I sit, read, yaala yaala, clean, etc.

As I said before, a new life, new difficulties. Language is a big one. I spent all of training learning French but need Bambara at site. My homologue is often out of town, so I struggle to fill my time. Days are long. The abuse here is also very hard to deal with, especially in the schools. No matter how much I see it, I can’t (and don’t want to) get used to seeing teachers hit students. This is a new challenge that I haven’t yet found a solution for.

Part IV- My American Life

That’s all there really is to my Malian life here, but I do have an American side as well It’s in San. Every week or two the other volunteers and I head in to the stage house to recover. In San we can do some shopping that you can’t do at site (tuna, ketchup, produce every day, orange juice, cold soda and sweet frozen yogurt…as in yogurt that is frozen). At the stage house we enjoy electricity, ceiling fans, a stove and refrigerator, toilets and running water. More than anything we enjoy each other. Let me introduce you to San kaw:

The Breakfast Club:
Me- Malian alter ego Worokia Coulibaly
Susie- the other SED volunteer from Tennessee living in Kimparana
Nicole- super NRM volunteer furthest from San, excellent cook
Rachel- Ag volunteer in N’Torosso whose crazy enough to bike 3 hours to San in the heat
Stephani- NRM volunteer crazy enough to bike with Rachel

Belushis:
Kali- the one I’ve gotten to know best, fellow Incredible, NRM from central New York and a huge help thus far
Tamara- Ag or NRM volunteer who just went to Ghana
Patience- insanely kind SED volunteer who runs the behind the scenes work at the stage house
Jam- the missing Belushi who rarely leaves her site

Yup, we’re a girl’s club. Luckily it’s a great group of people who I really enjoy. Let’s take Halloween as an example…

Last week San hosted Halloween for 25 or so PCVs. Kali was in charge an did an incredible job. I tried to help out, but it was pure chaos (insanely fun chaos, that is). I got to San a few days eary to get my costume together and help set up. The theme was superheroes and villains, though only half of us followed the theme. Kali, Nicole and I went as the Incredibles (make sure to check out pictures of Flickr).

The day before a ton of people showed up; a little earlier than expected. We all spent the day getting caught up as it was the first time we’d seen PCVs from out of region since training. Kali and I cooked like mad in the sweltering kitchen. I’m told the food turned out well, though somehow I ate very little of it. We made a bunch of snack foods that included peanut butter cookies, cheddar popcorn, pork balls and banana bread; all luxuries we can’t get or make at site.

On Halloween we carved watermelons, which turned out to be bar superior to pumpkins. They made for excellent snacks and drinks that night. They looked great, too. Besides that we got all dressed up and partied all night. It was a great American holiday and release from Malian life.

Conclusion

So that’s it; my life thus far in Mali. I’m definitely still struggling to find my place in Yangasso, but I do feel like I’ve found my place within Peace Corps. The people here are amazing and I consider myself lucky to be in their company. I look forward to the next two years with them.

I want to thank everyone who has sent me letters and packages. Upon arrival in San, my first stop is always the post office, and the first hours are always spent pouring over letters. I keep them at site and pull them out whenever I feel lonely. Thank you so much, and I’ll do my best to keep up on my end.

Sorry this turned in to such an over view. If you have questions or want random stories, write a letter! I promise I’ll write back! I'll get pictures up as soon as possible...internet is slow here and I'm sharing my computer.

The Breakfast Club

The last few days have been a whirlwind. After swear in morning, all of the new PCVs headed to Bamako for the night to party with PCVs from past classes. There was a lot of drinking, dancing and late night swimming. One of the highlights was the naming of my PCV class. Every year, the group who swore in the previous year names the newcomers. Three classes ago they were the “Cleavers” because they were so well behaved. Last year’s class was the first huge group of over 70 new rowdy volunteers. They were appropriately named the Belushi’s. We were named “the Breakfast Club,” apparently because of our very diverse group of people.

We leave tomorrow morning for our sites…bright and early at 6am (following breakfast at 5). Honestly, I’m absolutely terrified. My language skills are not great, especially since I’ve been learning French but most people in my village speak only Bambara. They’ve also given us very little direction about what we’ll be doing the next few months. We’re not allowed to start projects until after IST (in-service training) in January, so this first phase is only evaluating the community and working on language.

More than anything, I’m nervous about the isolation. I’ve developed some close relationships with other volunteers, who I most likely won’t see for four months. I’m also losing my internet access. The closest is in Segou, a couple of hours away by bus. I’ll be lucky to update once a month or so. What I’m trying to get at is that my nerves are getting to me at the moment, though I am really excited to get going. So basically, please call or send letters whenever you have a chance!

Hopefully everything will work out for the best. If I can make through this next phase I’ll be able to last the two years. Being an official volunteer is great; but being an official volunteer who speaks the language will be even better. Wish me luck!

Swear In

We officially swore in as volunteers this morning. The ceremony felt a lot like college graduation with Malian clothes. It took place at the American embassy. Speeches were made by representatives of the Peace Corps and the Malian government, the American Ambassador, and several volunteers (in each of the five languages being learned). Like every employee of the United States government, we stood up and took the oath. The ceremony was followed by lunch at the Ambassador's home (which was absolutely delicious), and hundreds of pictures....some of which are up of flickr. Now we're hanging out here for a few hours before heading to Bamako to celebrate for the night.

It feels fantastic to finally be an official volunteer. No longer a PCT, we've made it past the first hurdle. I hope the next two years are all I hope them to be.

Malian Birthday

I wanted to thank everyone who made by birthday so enjoyable. I had a wonderful day. It started with a surprise phone call from some friends from home and was followed by my finally being able to open the birthday gifts that have been sitting in my room for weeks. I loved being able to talk to family, as always. My friends here were fantastic, and ensured with the kitchen staff that I got a fantastic cake. Thanks again, and there are a few new pictures up on flickr.

Installation Logistics

Since swear in is fast approaching, we have finally received the logistics for our installation at site. I hate the word "installation" that PC uses to refer to our actually moving to our new homes. But Peace Corps is all about integration, so there it is, I'm being installed. Here's the schedule of my coming week or so:

• Friday, Sept. 21st: Swear in! Party it up all night in Bamako.
• Saturday, Sept. 22nd: Recover. Malian Independence Day.
• Sunday, Sept. 23rd: Leave by public bus for Segou with about 10 other new PCVs. Spend the night at a hotel in Segou.
• Monday, Sept. 24th: Shop in Segou in the morning, then take a PC car to San to spend the night with the rest of San Kaw (my group).
• Tuesday, Sept. 25th: Shop in San. The first PCV of the San Kaw, Nicole, is installed. Spend the night in San.
• Wednesday, Sept. 26th: Move into my new home! Set up my house and get organized. Begin to freak out about having no idea what I'm doing. Start the next two years of my life.

As soon as I move out to site, I will not longer have internet access. The closest is in Segou, about a three hour bus ride away, so I'll be lucky to get there every month or so. However my phone will have great service and I'll have access to my San mailing address regularly...and I will be in need of support!

The End of Homestay...Finally

So homestay is finally over…and I couldn’t be more pleased. It has been a very trying past few months, and my host family has not made it any easier. This last week was especially challenging as my host father beat one of his wives on several occasions. I’d never seen a man strike a woman before, let alone to this extent. It was insanely difficult not to get involved (as is Peace Corps policy for our own safety). At the same time, I couldn’t act like it didn’t happen. I’m glad to be out of that house.

Now we’ll train for a few weeks here in Tubani So. I’m not really sure what all we’ll be learning, besides logistics for our first few months at site. My LCF, Oscar, said he’d give me as many Bambara lessons as we can fit it. I’ll miss him at site; he’s been fantastic and as helpful as possible over the past two months.

We swear in as official volunteers on Friday! I’m very excited. We had our first chance to pass the language requirement a few days ago. I was thrilled to pass the first time, as the pressure is now completely off and I can focus on Bambara. Learning two languages at once is not easy. It also guarantees that I’ll be able to swear in, as well.

Field Trip

Some days it just hits me that this is absolutely where I want to be. Today was one of those days. I’m bursting with so much happiness that it makes me want to cry.

Nothing particularly exciting has happened recently. There’s been a lot of language tutoring, and a fair amount of technical training as well. My favorite sessions were about a week ago when all of the SED and NRM (natural resource management) volunteers went to Siby, a little town an hour out of Bamako. We spent the morning learning about the shea nut industry and ways in which local production could really boost local economies. It was wonderful to finally study something applicable.

After lunch we were all able to go on several incredible hikes. The best was up to a seasonal waterfall that overlooked the countryside. We felt like little kids climbing on rocks and splashing in the water. If in two months time we all have schisto (a charming worm you can get from running water), it will have been well worth it. I’ll try to upload some pictures soon.

Now I’m off to play 151, a Malian card game (in French), with my favorite Lindsey in the world. Wish me luck…she’s going to kick my ass.

Malian Glossary

Acronyms:

• PCT - Peace Corps Trainee
• PCV - Peace Corps Volunteer
• LCF - Language Cultural Facilitator; responsible for teaching us the language and helping to integrade during training (mine is Oscar Coulibaly)
• CD - Country Director (Kateri Clement)
• PCMO - Peace Corps Medical Officer (Aissata and Andrea)
• NGO - Non-government organization, non-profit we work with
• CSCOM - A health center, I don't know what the letters actually stand for
• COS - Completion of Service; the date I officially finish as a volunteer
• ET - Early termination; leaving early for any reason
• WAIT - West African Internation Time; meaning late
• TIA - This is Africa; used by volunteers in shock
• WAWA - West Africa Wins Again

Random Terms:

• Homologue - Malian work counterpart; the person I’ll be working with for two years
• Tubob - Any white person
• Dja Tigi - Host family; in my case the people I eat, but do not live, with
• Dugu Tigi- Chief of the village
• Stage house - The common house for PCVs in the San area
• Bruce - A location in the sticks, away from any big town
• Nyegen - Malian bathroom; a walled hole in the ground, usually with no roof
• Bush Taxi - Green "buses" (for lack of a better term) that cram more people, chickens, goats and luggage than you'd ever think possible

Site Visit

My site visit was fantastic. I’m absolutely thrilled with Yangasso, and can’t wait to get back there. There’s so much to say, so this will have to be a quick overview. I'm exhausted.

I took a bus with three other PCTs and our Malian coworkers. It took about 7 hours to get from Bamako to San, which is the closest large town we will use for banking and shopping. In San we were greeted by the current PCVs of the area who cooked us a fantastic curry dinner and brownies. We stayed the night in the stage house. It’s basically a small western style house for volunteers to use whenever they need to come into town. It has electricity, a refrigerator, oven, running/drinkable water, ceiling fans and tile floors. I can’t describe the joy we felt upon arrival.

The next morning we all set out to our respective sites. My house in Yangasso is cement with a tin roof and no electricity. It’s a long building with two apartments of three rooms each. My rooms are painted bright blue with a yellowish border. The concession is huge, and a pain to cross at night in the rain to get to my nyegen. There is a well in the center of the concession for bathing water. Drinking water comes from a public pump. They’re also building a hangar for me (a thatch roof canopy thing for shade), and there’s plenty of room to start a garden. My street turns into a river after a storm.

I share the concession with a Malian family. I’ve only met the father, but he’s as nice as can be. The second morning there was a huge rain storm, so my host family couldn’t get to my house to deliver food. Worried that I hadn’t eaten, my neighbor went out in the storm to get me bread, eggs and coffee, and refused to let me pay him back. He was completely disappointed that I left before his wife and 5 children returned from Bamako, and I can’t wait to meet them next month.

I spent my three days at site meeting absolutely everyone of any importance in town, eating with my supervisor’s family, attempting to learn a little more French and Bambara, and playing with the local kids. Actually it wasn’t so much playing as me reading or writing while they watched. One of my favorite moments was meeting my supervisor’s extended family, including a new nephew who was just a few days old. As soon as I walked into the room the baby was dropped in my arms while the women chattered away in Bambara.

I was given the new last name of Coulibaly, which means I’m joking cousins with pretty much everyone. It was great ice breaker with everyone in the community.

After three days at site we went back to the stage house in San where we made delicious tacos and cheesecake. We stayed up all night listening to music, dancing and talking then slept on the bus ride back today. It’s past 11pm now and I can’t remember the last time bed sounded so good. I’ve finally added some new pictures to Flickr (they took forever to load, so there aren’t many); be sure to check them out.

Harry Potter, a phone and Bamako

Harry Potter finally arrived! I'm very excited it came before homestay, because apparantly I'm gong to have a lot of down time.

In other news, I also finally have a cell phone. It's a Peace Corps issued one, so I should have it for the rest of my service. Basically how it works is I buy phone cards to add minutes to my phone. It's really expensive, so it works far better (for me) to have you call. I'll add the phone number to my contact information.

We went into Bamako for the first time this week. It was not nearly as exciting as I'd hoped, but still good. We went to a tubob store (grocery store geared toward white people) where I bought paprika Pringles. Then we went to a restaurant for pizza and ice cream. It was fantastic. Unfortunately that's all we did because we only had a few hours and the restaurant was really slow.

Tomorrow I head out to my site...I'll let you know how it goes.

On My Father's Request

My dad emailed me some questions and suggestions about what I should write about on my blog. I actually found this rather amusing, but apparantly my posts are simply not good enough on their own. Anyways, he asked about the daily lives of the average Malian, as well as transportation questions. So Dad, here and the answers...

Gender roles are very defined in Mali. They do practice polygamy, so Muslim men can have as many as four wives. The number of wives generally correlates to wealth. Women do work in the fields in rural communities, otherwise they stay at home. They get up by 6 each morning to begin the cooking and cleaning for the day. All cooking is done outside unless it's raining. Then it's done in the doorway. They use a small metal stove with charcoal and beat up metal pots. Eating is done out of a communal tin bowl with our hands (no utensils). Besides cooking, the women sweek with a small hand sweep things several times a day (Mali is a very dusty country), pull water for themselves, me and the men from the well, do laundry and shop at the local market.

The men are very lazy. Actually they're not, but it sometimes appears that way. My host father, Moussa, is the headmaster of the local school, so their situation is a little different than most. I don't think he'd officially working at the moment. Malian schools have summer break just like we do. He and my host brothers sleep in a little more, but are usually up by 7 or 8. Then the take off and go who knows where. They do not EVER help cook or clean. They come home for every meal, and tend to pass the evenings playing checkers or cards and watching tv. The men are the ones doing all the official work.

Each wife has her own bedroom, and the husband goes back and forth. The sons all sleep on mats in the front room.

Now to transportation. So far I've mainly used PC transport...that being Land Rovers with crazy drivers. In my village I ride my bike or walk everywhere. Locals do the same. If they're going out of town, the use bush taxis. These are bright green mini "buses" that cram as many people, animals and luggage in as they can. For longer trips there are nicer buses of similar quality to a city bus in the States.

Hope this was a helpful insight into Malian life. More updates on what's going on when I have some time.

The Daily Grind

Finally healthy! I can’t begin to explain the difference being healthy makes every day. Everything seems so much more manageable. Although, I'm still in desparate need of a day off. I left a month ago, and we literally do not get any time off. Sleeping as late as 7 is fantastic.

I started eating with my family again yesterday, for the first time since coming back from Tubaniso. I was super excited; even more so when I saw there were some new foods. For the past three weeks at homestay, 9 out of 10 meals has been riz avec sauce d’arachide (rice with peanut sauce). Last night was had some spicy sauce that was really good. No idea what it was; when it’s dark out you can’t see the food. Today we had my favorite fried rice that actually tastes like Spanish rice, with a side of ….pasta. That’s right, rice with a side of mushy, nasty pasta. I’m not so excited with new foods anymore.

We went to our first Malian wedding the other day, which was quite an experience. It starts with cramming about 50 people in a tiny little room in the mayor’s office. The bride, groom and their representatives sit in the front, with us Tubobs behind them. Everyone crowded around, pressing in on us. Basically it like a civil service, and then everyone heads back to the groom’s house for a big party. Lots of singing, dancing, and bright clothing. It was strange to be treated like honored guests at a wedding for people we’d never met. Kind of uncomfortable, but I guess we’d better get used to it.

Yangasso

I just got some info about Yangasso that I thought I'd share. It's a town of about 5,000 people with surrounding villages that make a population of about 70,000. I'm the first volunteer at the site, and I'll be working as a community development agent. Still no idea what that really means. I'll have no electricity or running water at my house, but access to both in other parts of the city. My counterpart agency will be a local NGO, but I'll also work with the mayor's office. My housing situation will be a two or three room apartment in a concession with a Malian family. I will have cell phone coverage! I will be visiting my site for the first time on the 22nd.

Site Assignment!

Well, they did not announce what I'll be doing, but at least I finally know where I'm going. In a month and a half I'll be moving Yangasso, a town in the Segou region. I know absolutely nothing about it, so shoot me any information you find. I will be very close to a number of other volunteers, which is great. My town is just north of Sikasso region (where all the good fruit is) and west of Burkina Faso. Apparantly there's a great river festival in Segou every year. I'm so excited to finally know where I'm going.

In other news, I have to go the the Bamako med office this afternoon to get tests or whatever done. From what I hear, the office has good food, air conditioning, a dvd player and comfortable beds. Is it bad that I'm looking forward to it?

Illness

I feel honored to be one of the select few who is really sick. I missed classes this morning to hang out in the medical office; downing Gaterade and trying to sleep. I have a bacterial infection, cold and was dehydrated. Good fun. They have to send my tests to the US embassy to get more detailed results, but I got some good drugs a little while ago. I'm determined to be better tomorrow so I don't have to go to the med office in Bamako. We have site announcements at 9:30 tomorrow morning, and I WILL be there.

Out of the 83 original volunteers, only 81 made it to Mali. Since then we have lost 4. One was mentally unstable (literally), two went home by choice, one was forced to leave this morning because of public drunkeness. I was totally bummed that she left because she would have made a great volunteer. A bunch of PCTs went to a bar, and she got sick. I think they were trying to set an example, which is understandable. It still sucks.

Nothing else has happened. The med office here has comfy beds, fans, soft pillows and real bathrooms. At least something good has come out of this.

The Continent is Trying to Kill Me

Word in Tubaniso is that we find out our permanant sites before we head back to our training villages on Thursday. I hope that's true. If it is, Thursday will actually be a pretty exciting day. I believe we're having lunch with the US ambassador before heading out. Until then, I just wanted to add some random events and facts from Droit to make my life sound a little more interesting.

My LCF (language-culture facilitator) is Oscar Coulibaly. He's a 37 year old Malian from Segou (a Malian region). The four of us PCTs living in Droit really like him, and his matter-of-fact way of answering anything about himself. After reading his little biography in one of our volunteer books, we learned that he is married, does yoga and plays musical instruments. The next day I asked what he played, and he responded simply with "several instruments." That was it, no elaboration. Another time we asked if he was lonely, since his wife is in Bamako. He just said "yes" and went on with the rest of the day. He's just funny in that you have to push to find anything out about him...but at the same time he's completely adorable and sweet. It helps that he's super short and looks like he's about 15.

For those of you looking for Droit on a map, don't bother. The closest large town Moribabugu, though Droit is only about 30 kms outside of Bamako; to the northeast, I think.

Ok, joking cousins....This is the greatest thing thus far about Mali. There are somewhere around 80 family names in Mali, with a dozen or so different ethnic groups. They pride themselves on their diversity. To alleviate any ethnic tensions or family rivalries, they have joking cousins. Basically what this means is that there is at least one designated family for each other family to joke with. For example, the Coulibalys joke with the Fulfunes. Actually, the Coulibalys kind of joke with everyone. Anyways, whenever two people meet, if they are joking cousins they automatically go at it with each other. The most common joke involves one person telling another he eats beans, or some variation. It sounds odd, but it's actually hilarious. They even use joking cousins to settle disputes. If two people are fighting and find out they're joking cousins, all fighting is generally alleviated with jokes. Chelsea (a fellow Droit PCT) and I have decided America could benefit from this, and our American names are now going to be joking cousins. Bowens, if you meet any Brinks, tell them they eat beans.

In other news, the continent is currently trying to kill me and every other new PCT here. We all have variations of bacterial infections, reactions to medications and foods, amoebas, and even cold and flu bugs. I've been sick for a couple of days and feel pretty miserable. Eating is a total chore and I frequent the nyegen way too often. Oh well, what can you do. Probably 75% of us are sick. At least we're going through it together. I never thought I'd be so open with people I've known less than a month about such private bodily funtions. Don't worry, mom, I will be fine. The med office here is great. I'm glad I'm sick while in Tubaniso instead of Droit.

On that cheerful note I'm heading out. I'm sure I'll update again if and when I find out my site, or if anything else interesting happens. Or if I'm bored. Very likely. There is an internet cafe in Moribabugu, so I'm taking my laptop to site, and I may be able to update once or twice while I'm there. It's really expensive, though, so no promises.

My Name is Not Tubob

So much to write…I hardly know where to start.

First of all, I want to thank everyone who sent me letters. I got back to Tubaniso this afternoon to 5 awaiting letters. I was beyond excited. No Harry Potter yet. One girl got the book in the mail today, but it had been sent DHL. Most of the letters I got were #2s, which I’m told is normal. I promise you’ll all be getting responses soon. Or maybe not soon, but they will be sent.

I’m now living most of the time in NGabacoro Droit, or Droit for short. It’s a town of about 4000 people, but it feels much smaller. Probably 75% of the population is under the age of 15. It’s very rural, and very poor (understandable as Mali is the 3rd poorest country in the world).

My host family is headed by Moussa Toancara who is the head of the local school. He has two wives, one of whom is pregnant, and four sons. Upon arriving in Droit, I was “adopted” into the family and given the Malian name of Worokia Toancara. Every morning as I walk to class I’m hounded my dozens of kids yelling “Worokia, Worokia…bon jour!” This is quite an improvement over the screams of “Tubob,” the Bambara expression for a white person. It’s pretty amusing because as soon as I respond they tend to run away.

The house I live in is a very simple cement building with a wide front hall, three small rooms and a leaky tin roof. It sounds like the world is coming to an end whenever it rains. The courtyard, where all free time is spent, is dirt/mud with a small garden, piles of waste and random animals. The “bathroom” is uncovered, and I have to say it’s incredibly enjoyable to take a bucket bath outside in the evening before bed.

The things you think are going to be hard are all manageable. You get used to the heat because you have to. You eat the food because you have no choice, though it becomes a whole lot less important in your life. The feeling of isolation is definitely hard (hence in incredible excitement at letters), and lack of communication is immensely challenging. All the same, it’s doable.

The idea of two years here is really hard to comprehend at this point. If I had to say now if I thought I could make it, my answer would be probably not. Life is very lonely, even when you can get no privacy. But I’m definitely not ready to give up. I know that I’ll feel differently once I can communicate.

Sorry this is a sort of boring overview of my life here. I actually handwrote some random things I wanted to share while I was gone, so I’m going to try to type some up in the next few days. Thanks again for the letters…and keep them coming!

Leaving for Homestay

I leave bright and early tomorrow morning for my homestay village of...NGabacoro Droit, a village of 4,000 people about half an hour from Bamako. I'll be there with three other PCTs (or trainees), though there will be about 15 more within 10 minutes by bike. There I will focusing on learning French with a little Bambara thrown in.

It was kind of exciting getting our homestay assignments today. Most of us are learning French and Bambara, meaning we could really be sent anywhere in the country. Still it was fun to learn who will be in the same village with us for the next few months. Those individuals who are going to be living in a more remote part of the country found that out, as they're learning languages such as Tamasheq and Dogon.

Training is fine, with nothing new to really report. The three legged cat just had kittens. They'll be old enough for me to take one to my site when I get my assignment. Definitely a possibility. Besides that things are the same. I got pictures onto my computer, but the internet wouldn't let me put them up online. I'll try again tonight if I have time. Otherwise it will be a few weeks. I get back to Tubaniso (and a computer) in just under two weeks (ish).

K'an b'u fo!

Tubaniso

We've been in Tubaniso (or "House of the Doves") for a few days now while taking crash courses in Bambara, Malian culture and life in the heat. We are relearning everything from how to eat, shower, use the restroom...that's right people, no toilets... and speak. At the moment I share a hut with a fellow volunteer that contains beds, mosquito nets and our massive luggage. Tubaniso also has three village pets, including a gazelle, a three legged cat and a giant tortoise.

Bambara is my favorite class thus far, and though I'll mainly be learning French, I plan on continuing with a Bambara tutor throughout my service. It will be super useful here, and is simply a fun language to speak.

On Wednesday we will all move out of Tubaniso for our homestay villages somewhere within 120 kms from Bamako. That's where we'll be training for the next eight weeks with occasional stops back here. Internet usage will come and go over the coming months as I move in and out of Tubaniso. I'm not sure what's going on with mail, but no one has gotten any yet. Someone says it comes in once a week or so, but I'll only get it when here, and not at my homestay village. I'll update when I can (and hopefully more detailed when there aren't people waiting for the computers or wireless is back up). Pictures to come when I can use my laptop.

Hope to talk to you all soon (in one form or another). Until then, k'an ben!

Staging

I've been at staging for a few days, which has gone really well. The people here are incredible. It's wonderful to be around a huge group of people who all have similar ideals, goals and worried parents. There are over 80 volunteers going to Mali with me tomorrow, as well as another 30 or 40 in our hotel who are going to Benin. From what I understand, we'll all be on the same plane to Paris tomorrow evening...should be fun.

Staging is crazy. Yesterday was mainly introductions, getting to know everyone and reminders of all kinds of crap we already knew. This morning we were up at 6:30 for shots and our first malaria pills, and this afternoon is full of seminars of safety, Peace Corps protocols and whatnot. We have more staging events tomorrow morning before leaving for the airport at 1.

Anyways, I thought I'd just let everyone know I'm doing well and having a fantastic time. Send letters!

Thank you.

This has been a great weekend; my last here in Santa Rosa. I want to thank everyone who has made it do special. My plane leaves in about 12 hours, and I feel lucky to have a great support system behind me. I'll be in Philadelphia for a few days before heading to Mali. I will have my cell phone until I leave for Africa, so feel free to give me a call before Thursdayish. And check out the pictures link, there are some new good ones!

What is the Harmattan?

The Harmattan is a dry, dusty wind that blows south off of the Sahara during the winter. When it blows strongly, it creates a haze that reduces visibility like San Francisco fog. It can blow sand and dust as far south as South America. The wind, however, does bring relief from the insane summer heat.

The first real post.

I feel the need to write a post as Caroline wrote the first one...and just to get things moving.

I leave California on Monday, and am completely unprepared as of right now. Packing is not going well, and probably won't be finished until right before I leave Monday morning. I feel that I should be able to fully enjoy my last few days here, which does not include packing; so it should just magically happen. Until that happens, all my Peace Corps possessions are scattered all over my old bedroom. And yes, I mean ALL over.

Just a reminder that there's a goodbye party on Saturday at 4ish at my house. There will be food. And tears.

hi

hello my name is jamie